Chachapoyas

Chachapoyas is a small colonial town of white walls, wooden balconies and a large plaza at 2,335 metres, in country that is neither highland nor jungle but the ceja de selva, the eyebrow of forest, where the eastern Andes fall into the Amazon and cloud sits on the ridges most of the year. It is the base for a dense group of sites: Kuélap, the vast stone fortress on the ridge above the Utcubamba; Gocta, one of the tallest waterfalls in the world; the sarcophagi at Karajía; the mausoleums at Revash; the Leymebamba museum with its two hundred mummies recovered from Laguna de los Cóndores. Getting there is the problem - it is a long way from anywhere, with a road journey of nine to ten hours from Chiclayo, and the cable car to Kuélap has been out of service for extended periods. Agencies in town run day trips to everything.

History

The conquistador Alonso de Alvarado founded the city on 5 September 1538 as San Juan de la Frontera de los Chachapoyas, first near La Jalca and then near Levanto; climate, disease and poor defences forced several moves, and it is believed to have reached its present site in 1545. Its Plaza de Armas is a square 100 metres on each side, and a colonial legend tells of the chief Pantoja, who asked the viceroy's leave to roof his house in gold (Wikipedia, Chachapoyas, Peru).

What's there

• The colonial town - white walls, balconies and a large plaza at 2,335 metres.
• The base function - agencies running trips to Kuélap, Gocta, Karajía and Revash.
• The cloud forest - ceja de selva country on the eastern slope of the Andes.
• The isolation - nine or ten hours by road from the nearest large city.

When to go

May to September for road and trail conditions, though cloud and rain are constant here. Three to five days to cover the main sites. Check the status of the Kuélap cable car before planning.

What to expect

Very long journeys to get there and between sites - most day trips are ten to twelve hours. Frequent rain and cloud. The Kuélap cable car has been closed for long periods, adding hours to that visit. Limited restaurant choice.

Nearby

Kuélap is south-west; Gocta is north-west; Leymebamba and Revash are south.

Key facts