Belén Market

Belén market spreads over many blocks in the south of Iquitos beside the Itaya, and it is the largest market of the Peruvian Amazon: river fish including paiche and gamitana, turtle and bushmeat sold openly despite restrictions, aguaje and camu camu and dozens of other palm and forest fruits, suri grubs eaten raw or grilled, plantain, yuca, and the Pasaje Paquito, an alley given over entirely to medicinal plants, barks, roots, tobacco preparations and bottled remedies. Below it is the Belén neighbourhood itself, built on rafts and stilts on the floodplain, which rises and falls several metres with the river each year and is reached by canoe in high water. The market is intense - hot, crowded, pungent - and it is also a place where theft is common and guides are worth taking. Wildlife trade here is a real conservation problem.

What you actually see

• The river fish - paiche, gamitana and dozens of Amazonian species.
• Pasaje Paquito - the alley of medicinal plants, barks and preparations.
• The forest fruits - aguaje, camu camu and palm produce by the sackful.
• The floating neighbourhood - Belén itself, on stilts and rafts below the market.

When to go

Year-round. Early morning is best - cooler, fresher and busier with actual trade. Two to three hours, ideally with a guide.

Honest expectations

Theft is common; go with a guide and carry nothing loose. Protected wildlife including turtles and bushmeat is sold openly - buying any of it is illegal and damaging. Hot, crowded and strong-smelling. Medicinal claims made by sellers are traditional, not medical advice.

Nearby

The Malecón Tarapacá and Casa de Fierro are in central Iquitos, north of the market.