Sancocho

Panamanian sancocho is not the thick many-meat stew of the Dominican Republic; it is a clear broth, and its character comes from two things. The chicken should be gallina de patio, an older yard hen with enough age on it to make a proper stock, and the herb is culantro, the long-leaved relative of coriander with a much stronger flavour, added in quantity. Ñame, the yam, goes in and partly dissolves, which thickens the broth slightly. It is served with white rice on the side, spooned in or eaten alongside, and it is the standard restorative for a hangover, a cold or a long night.

What you actually see

• Culantro - the long-leaved herb that defines the flavour.
• Gallina de patio - the older yard hen that makes the stock.
• Ñame - the yam that partly dissolves and thickens the broth.
• With rice on the side - the standard way it is served.

When to go

Year-round and at any hour; fondas serve it from early morning. It is particularly associated with the Azuero and with the morning after carnival. Markets and small fondas do it better than restaurants.

Honest expectations

It is deliberately simple and visitors expecting a rich stew are often underwhelmed; the point is the broth. Restaurant versions made with commercial chicken lack the depth the yard hen gives. Culantro is strong and not to everyone's taste. There is no vegetarian version in the tradition.

Nearby

Fondas across the country; the Azuero towns are where it is taken most seriously.