Cassoulet in Languedoc

Cassoulet is white beans baked for hours with preserved duck or goose, pork and sausage, in a wide glazed clay bowl called a cassole that gives the dish its name. Three towns claim it and each defends a version: Castelnaudary leans on pork, Carcassonne sometimes adds mutton, Toulouse uses its own coarse sausage and more confit. The crust that forms on top is broken back into the surface as it bakes, and how many times that should happen is a matter of firmly held local opinion. It is a winter dish from a region that gets properly cold inland, and it is not built for a hot terrace lunch in August.

What's there

• The cassole - the glazed earthenware bowl the dish is named after.
• Confit - duck or goose preserved in its own fat, buried in the beans.
• The crust - broken back into the surface repeatedly during the bake.
• The three versions - Castelnaudary, Carcassonne and Toulouse, each defended.

When to go

Autumn and winter are the right seasons and most kitchens treat them that way, dropping the dish from summer menus or serving a lighter imitation. Order it at lunch rather than dinner and plan nothing afterwards. Castelnaudary holds a festival for it in late August, which is the wrong month and half admits as much.

Things to know

It is heavy, salty and fatty by design, and one portion is enough for two moderate appetites. Tinned cassoulet is sold everywhere and reheated in places that should know better. There is nothing here for vegetarians and no light version worth ordering. In summer the dish appears mostly as a tourist obligation, cooked without conviction.

Nearby

The walled city of Carcassonne, the Canal du Midi through Castelnaudary and the Corbieres vineyards south.