The Pearl Islands

The Archipiélago de las Perlas holds something like two hundred islands and rocks in the Gulf of Panama, named for the pearl beds the Spanish worked with enslaved divers from the sixteenth century; the Peregrina, one of the most famous pearls in history, is said to have come from here. Contadora is the developed island with an airstrip and beaches; Isla del Rey is much the largest and barely visited; Saboga and Casaya have fishing villages. Humpback whales from the southern hemisphere calve in these waters from July to October, and the archipelago is one of the more reliable places in the Pacific to see them.

What you actually see

• Contadora's beaches - the accessible ones, a short flight from the city.
• Humpback whales - calving here from July to October.
• The pearl history - the beds that gave the islands their name.
• Isla del Rey - the largest island, with almost no visitors.

When to go

December to April is the dry season with the calmest crossings. Humpbacks are present from July to October, which overlaps with the wet season. Ferries run daily from Panama City and flights take twenty minutes.

Honest expectations

Contadora has had a difficult time since its resort era ended and facilities are patchy, with businesses opening and closing. The ferry can be rough. Beyond Contadora there is almost no accommodation. Whale watching operators vary and some crowd the animals; the calving season is exactly when disturbance matters most.

Nearby

Panama City is 90 minutes by ferry; Taboga is on the way.