Isla Bastimentos

Bastimentos is the second largest island in the Bocas archipelago and much the least developed, with no road across it: Old Bank at the western end is a Guari Guari-speaking Afro-Caribbean village reached by boat, and Salt Creek at the eastern end is Ngäbe. Between them the island rises into forest holding red, green and yellow variants of the strawberry poison dart frog, each population on a different part of the archipelago and each a different colour. The national marine park covers the northern side and the Zapatilla cays offshore, and the north-coast beaches take the open Caribbean swell.

What you actually see

• Red Frog Beach - the north-coast beach and the frogs behind it.
• Old Bank - the Afro-Caribbean village at the western end, boat access only.
• Wizard and Polo beaches - emptier stretches along the north shore.
• The marine park - covering the northern side and the Zapatillas.

When to go

The Bocas seasons are their own: February to April and September to October are the driest and calmest. The north-shore beaches have strong surf and rip currents from December to March. Water taxis run through the day and stop after dark.

Honest expectations

The north-coast beaches have powerful rips and there have been drownings; there are no lifeguards. Old Bank has had a difficult relationship with development and visitors should be respectful rather than treating it as scenery. Sandflies are severe. Bocas rainfall is heavy in most months.

Nearby

Bocas Town is fifteen minutes; the Zapatilla cays are further out.