The Camino de Cruces

For nearly three centuries the silver of Peru was landed at Panama, carried across the isthmus by mule and then shipped from Portobelo to Spain, and part of that route was paved: a cobbled road through the forest, sections of which survive under leaf litter and moss in the national park that carries its name. Walking it is walking on the stones the treasure trains used, with the forest closed over the top and howler monkeys audible. The park sits between Soberanía and the city and forms part of the corridor of protected land along the canal, so wildlife moves through it despite the proximity to Panama City.

What you actually see

• The cobbled road - surviving stretches of Spanish paving under the forest.
• The forest corridor - protected land linking Soberanía to the city.
• Howler monkeys - audible along most of the route.
• The connection to Venta de Cruces - the river port at the trail's end.

When to go

December to April is the dry season and the trail firmest; in the wet the cobbles are slick and the path muddy. Early morning is best for wildlife and coolest. A guide adds a great deal, since the historical sections are easy to walk past.

Honest expectations

Sections of the surviving road are short and interrupted, and without a guide the trail can read as an ordinary forest walk. It is muddy and slippery in most months. There have been occasional robberies on quiet forest trails near the city, so go with others. Facilities are minimal.

Nearby

Soberanía and Pipeline Road are north; Panama City is twenty minutes south.