Shogran and Siri Paye

Shogran is a plateau at around 2,400 metres above the Kunhar river, covered in pine and fir and lined with hotels and cabins that have multiplied over the last two decades. The reason to keep going is Siri Paye, an alpine meadow about an hour further up a steep jeep track, where the trees stop and open grass rolls over the shoulder of the hill with small pools reflecting the sky. From the meadow the view takes in Malika Parbat and Makra Peak, and horses wait to carry visitors the last stretch. In summer Gujjar herders graze buffalo here and sell milk and tea from temporary huts. The contrast between the two levels is sharp: Shogran is a built-up resort, Siri Paye is open pasture, and the hour of rough track between them filters the crowds a little, though not nearly enough on peak weekends.

The landscape

• Siri Paye meadow - open grassland with reflecting pools above the treeline.
• Peak views - Malika Parbat and Makra from the upper meadow.
• Shogran plateau - pine forest and hotel terraces at the lower level.
• Herder huts - Gujjar summer camps selling milk and tea.

When to go

May to October. June and September avoid the worst crowds; July and August fill the jeep track with queues. Mist rolls in most afternoons and can erase the view within minutes, so go up early.

What to expect

The jeep track to Siri Paye is steep, rough and driven fast by local operators, which alarms many passengers. The meadow is heavily trafficked, with litter, horses and stalls at the popular end. Shogran itself is overbuilt and its hotel quality is inconsistent. Walking up takes about two hours and avoids the jeep fare.

Nearby

Naran and Saiful Muluk are further up the Kaghan valley; Balakot is below.