Astola Island

Astola, also called Haft Talar, lies about twenty-five kilometres off the Makran coast and is Pakistan's largest island: a flat-topped plateau about six kilometres long, rising in cliffs from the sea with a few landing beaches. It is uninhabited apart from seasonal fishing camps, and it was declared a marine protected area in 2017, the country's first. The reasons are ecological: green and hawksbill turtles nest on the beaches, the reefs around the island hold coral and reef fish in better condition than anywhere else on the coast, and the plateau supports endemic reptiles including a viper found nowhere else. A shrine on the island draws occasional Hindu pilgrims. Visiting means arranging a boat at Pasni, camping overnight on the beach with everything carried in, and depending entirely on the sea staying calm.

History

The earliest mention of the island is in Arrian's account of Nearchus, sent by Alexander the Great in 325 BC to explore the coast of the Arabian Sea, whose sailors were frightened by tales of an uninhabited island Arrian calls Nosala; he also called it Karmine. Astola, also known as Haft Talar, the "island of seven hills", is now a Ramsar wetland of international importance (Wikipedia, Astola Island).

The landscape

• Cliff plateau - the flat island rising sheer from the sea.
• Nesting beaches - turtle nesting sites in season, to be left undisturbed.
• Coral reefs - the best snorkelling and diving on the Pakistani coast.
• Seabirds and endemics - the island's birdlife and its endemic viper.

When to go

November to February, when the sea is calm enough for the crossing; the monsoon closes it entirely. Turtle nesting is seasonal and viewing must be at a distance and without lights. Trips are usually overnight camping expeditions.

Before you go

There is nothing on the island: no water, no shelter, no facilities, and no rescue. Boats are fishing vessels with minimal safety equipment and the two-hour crossing can be rough. Everything including drinking water and rubbish must be carried both ways. It is a marine protected area, so nothing should be taken and turtles must not be approached.

Nearby

Pasni is the departure port; the Makran Coastal Highway runs along the coast.

Key facts