Shisr and Ubar

Shisr is a waterhole on the desert margin north of the Dhofar mountains, and excavations here from 1992, guided partly by satellite imagery of old caravan tracks, revealed a fortified settlement with towers built over a limestone cavern that had partly collapsed, swallowing part of the structure. The team identified it with Ubar, the city of the Quran's Iram of the pillars and of later Arabian legend, said to have been destroyed for its people's pride, and the identification was widely reported though it remains debated among archaeologists. What is certain is that this was a caravan station on the frankincense route. It is one of the four components of the Land of Frankincense World Heritage property.

What you actually see

• The fortified walls - the excavated towers and enclosure.
• The collapsed cavern - the sinkhole into which part of the site fell.
• The waterhole - the spring that made the station possible.
• The visitor centre - the small display on the excavation and the legend.

When to go

October to March; the desert margin is extremely hot from April to September. Mornings are best. It is usually combined with a trip out to the Empty Quarter dunes beyond.

Honest expectations

The remains are modest: low walls and a sinkhole rather than a city. The Ubar identification is contested and the signage presents it more confidently than the evidence supports. The drive from Salalah takes over two hours each way. Facilities are minimal.

Nearby

The Empty Quarter dunes lie north; Salalah is south over the mountains.