Varanger Peninsula

The Varanger peninsula reaches into the Barents Sea at the far northeastern corner of Norway, further east than Istanbul, and its combination of Arctic tundra, ice-free coast and eastern position makes it the single most important birdwatching area in Europe for certain species: king eider, Steller's eider, brunnich's guillemot and various Siberian vagrants, along with breeding waders on the tundra. Winter brings eider flocks to Vardo and Ekkeroy; summer brings breeding birds and continuous daylight. The national scenic route runs to Hamningberg through a landscape of bare rock that looks lunar. Vardo, on an island at the end, holds the Steilneset memorial by Peter Zumthor and Louise Bourgeois to those executed for witchcraft in the seventeenth century.

What you actually see

• The eider flocks - king and Steller's eiders wintering along the coast.
• The tundra breeding grounds - waders and Arctic species in summer.
• The Hamningberg road - a scenic route through bare, lunar rock.
• Steilneset memorial - a Zumthor and Bourgeois installation at Vardo.

When to go

March for the wintering eider flocks in good light, which is the classic birding trip; May to July for breeding birds, tundra flowers and the midnight sun. Winter days are short and conditions severe.

Honest expectations

Distances are long and settlements far apart, with limited fuel and food. Winter driving in Finnmark requires proper tyres and care; roads close in storms. Accommodation is sparse and books out during the March birding season.

Nearby

Vardo and Ekkeroy are on the coast; Kirkenes and the Russian border lie southeast.