Hvaler Islands

Hvaler is a group of around eight hundred islands and skerries at the mouth of the Oslofjord, of which a handful are inhabited and linked to the mainland by bridges and a tunnel. The rock is a warm pink-grey granite worn into rounded whalebacks by the ice, and it holds heat, which combined with some of the highest sunshine figures in Norway makes the islands the classic Norwegian summer destination for people from Oslo and the Ostfold towns. Much of the outer archipelago lies within Ytre Hvaler National Park, established in 2009, Norway's first marine national park, protecting a seabed that includes cold-water coral reefs. Akeroya and Herfol are among the quieter outer islands, reached by boat.

What you actually see

• The pink granite - smooth rounded rock worn by ice, warm to sit on.
• The outer islands - Akeroya, Herfol and Sondre Sandoy by boat.
• The marine park - protected seabed with cold-water coral reefs.
• The summer villages - boat harbours and holiday houses on the inner islands.

When to go

June to August, when ferries run their full schedule and the water is warm enough for real swimming; July is very busy. May and September are quiet with the granite still pleasant to walk.

Honest expectations

July brings heavy traffic on the single road out and long queues at the bridges. Accommodation is scarce and expensive in season, with most visitors using their own boats or cabins. Parts of the national park have landing restrictions in the bird nesting season.

Nearby

Fredrikstad's fortified old town lies north; the Swedish border and Koster islands are close by sea.