Kano Old City

Kano has been a walled city since around the eleventh century and became the southern terminus of trans-Saharan routes carrying salt, cloth, leather and kola, which made it the commercial centre of Hausaland. The old city is still enclosed by the remains of its earth walls, running for many kilometres with named gates, though much has eroded or been built over. Within it are the Gidan Rumfa, the emir's palace occupied since the fifteenth century, with the Gidan Makama museum opposite in an old palace building; the Kurmi market, in use since the fourteenth century; and the great mosque. The Durbar, a mounted procession of the emir and his retinue in full regalia, is held at Eid.

What you actually see

• The city walls and gates - the remaining sections of the earth defences.
• Gidan Rumfa - the emir's palace and the museum opposite.
• Kurmi market - the medieval market still trading.
• The Durbar - the mounted Eid procession, when it falls.

When to go

November to February, when the harmattan makes the heat bearable, though it brings dust and haze. The Durbar falls at Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha and is the reason many visitors time a trip. Summer heat is extreme.

Honest expectations

Much of the wall has eroded or been built over and is hard to follow. Palace interior access is restricted. Kano is conservative; modest dress is expected and photography of people should be asked. Durbar crowds are enormous and disorganised.

Nearby

Kofar Mata dye pits are in the old city; Zaria lies southwest.