Avarua

Avarua, on the north coast of Rarotonga, is the small, laid-back capital of the Cook Islands, more an overgrown village than a city, and all the more charming for it. Strung along the coast, it offers a gentle introduction to island life: the colourful, bustling Punanga Nui Market, best on a Saturday morning, where locals sell produce, crafts, pearls and food; historic white coral-lime churches whose Sunday singing is glorious; low-key shops, cafes and pearl boutiques; and a relaxed harbour. With no traffic lights and a famously friendly, unhurried atmosphere, Avarua embodies the easygoing spirit of the Cook Islands.

History

Avarua, two harbours in Māori, was not the main centre of Rarotonga until the London Missionary Society arrived in 1823 and set up its headquarters here; trading ships based themselves here too, and from the middle of the 19th century it was the religious and commercial centre of the Cook Islands. After the islands became a British protectorate in 1888 and the first British resident was appointed, Avarua became their administrative and educational centre as well; the Cook Islands became part of New Zealand in 1901 and self-governing in free association with it in 1965 (Wikipedia, Avarua).

What's there

• Punanga Nui Market - the colourful Saturday-morning market.
• The coral churches - the historic white CICC churches.
• The harbour and shops - the relaxed waterfront, cafes and pearl shops.
• The island pace - the traffic-light-free, friendly town.

When to go

April to November, the drier season, for the most pleasant weather; the Punanga Nui Market is at its liveliest and most colourful on a Saturday morning, a highlight worth timing a visit for, and a Sunday church service offers glorious hymn-singing. The town is easily explored on foot or as part of the island circuit.

What to expect

Avarua is tiny and low-key, more a relaxed village than a capital, so it offers a pleasant half-day of market, churches and cafes rather than major sights, and much of it is quiet, especially on Sundays. As a charming, unhurried and friendly introduction to Cook Islands life, though, with its colourful market, historic churches and easygoing island atmosphere, Avarua is a delightful and characterful little capital.

Nearby

The beaches, the Muri Lagoon and the Cross-Island Track are around Rarotonga.

Key facts