Ijebu-Ode

Ijebu-Ode is the seat of the Awujale, the ruler of the Ijebu, and the town's great occasion is Ojude Oba, held on the third day after Eid al-Adha, when the age groups of the town, the regberegbe, and the leading families process before the ruler in matched dress, and the Balogun families ride in on horses in elaborate regalia with drummers and retainers. It began as a Muslim community's visit to thank the ruler and grew into the largest cultural gathering in Ogun State, drawing very large crowds and heavy media coverage. Outside the festival the town is a working commercial centre, and Sungbo's Eredo, the great earthwork, encircles the wider territory.

What you actually see

• Ojude Oba - the age groups and mounted families before the Awujale.
• The horse regalia - the Balogun families and their dressed horses.
• The Awujale's palace - the ruler's compound in the town.
• The Eredo - the earthwork enclosing the Ijebu territory nearby.

When to go

Ojude Oba falls on the third day after Eid al-Adha, which moves through the calendar each year; that is the only reason to time a visit. November to March otherwise for the weather. Accommodation at festival time is impossible locally.

Honest expectations

Outside the festival the town has little to show visitors. Festival crowds are enormous, hot and disorganised, with poor sightlines unless positioned early. Accommodation is in Lagos or Ibadan. Photography of participants is generally welcomed but of the ruler is restricted.

Nearby

Sungbo's Eredo surrounds the area; Lagos lies west.