Zapatera Island

Zapatera is an extinct volcano rising from Lake Nicaragua south of Granada, forested and thinly populated, declared a national park for its archaeology as much as its ecology. Pre-Columbian communities left petroglyphs across the island and carved basalt statues of human figures with animal features on their heads, among the most striking pre-Columbian sculpture in Central America; many were removed in the nineteenth century and are now in the convent museum in Granada, but sites remain on the island, particularly at Sonzapote. Zonzapote and Punta Zapote are the main archaeological areas. Facilities are almost nil: a few families, basic lodging, and boat access that has to be arranged. It is much less visited than Ometepe despite being closer to Granada.

What you actually see

• Petroglyphs - carved boulders across several sites on the island.
• Statue sites - the bases and remaining sculpture at Sonzapote.
• Forested volcano - the island's wooded slopes and lake shore.
• Lake Nicaragua - the water and Granada's volcanoes from the boat.

When to go

December to April for calmer water; the lake gets rough with the trade winds and crossings are cancelled. Archaeological sites are reached on foot through scrub, easier in the dry months.

Honest expectations

Most of the best sculpture is in Granada's museum, not on the island, which surprises visitors. Sites are unfenced, unlit and overgrown, and a guide is needed to find them. Boats are hired whole and the crossing is rough in wind. Lodging is minimal.

Nearby

Granada lies north; Las Isletas are on the way.