Apoyo Lagoon

Laguna de Apoyo fills a caldera about six kilometres across formed by an eruption some twenty-three thousand years ago, and the water is warm, clear and faintly mineral, heated in places by vents on the floor, which makes it one of the better swimming lakes anywhere in Central America. Forested slopes rise steeply around it, protected as a nature reserve, with howler monkeys, motmots and parakeets in the trees. A cluster of small lodges and hostels sits on the northern shore with docks, kayaks and day passes; the rest of the shoreline is largely undeveloped. The rim above has viewpoints at Catarina and Diriá. Water quality has come under pressure from building on the slopes, which is a live local argument.

What you actually see

• The warm clear water - a caldera lake heated by vents on the floor.
• Forested caldera walls - steep slopes rising all round the lake.
• Shore lodges and docks - swimming, kayaks and day access.
• Howler monkeys and motmots - wildlife in the reserve forest.

When to go

December to April for dry weather; the lake is swimmable year round. Weekends bring Nicaraguan visitors to the shore. The rainy season from May to November makes the access road down harder.

Honest expectations

The road down to the shore is steep and rough, and most people arrive by shuttle or taxi rather than driving. Day passes at lodges are charged and the free public access points are limited. Development on the slopes is increasing and affects the water. Swimming out far is deceptive, as the lake is deep and drops away quickly.

Nearby

Catarina viewpoint is on the rim; Granada lies southeast.