San Carlos

San Carlos sits at the southeastern corner of Lake Nicaragua where the water begins its run down the Río San Juan, and it functions as the transport hub for a region with almost no roads: boats leave from here downriver to El Castillo and San Juan de Nicaragua, west to Los Guatuzos and the Solentiname islands, and north across the lake to Granada on an overnight ferry. The town was painted in bright colours in a regeneration scheme and has a small fort, a waterfront walk and a market. Most travellers pass through rather than stay, timing their day around a departure. The setting, with the lake on one side and the river beginning on the other, is the appeal.

History

The Spanish reached the San Juan River, then called El Desaguadero, "the drain", in 1525, and some historians identify the site with Nueva Jaén, said to have been founded by Captain Gabriel de Rojas in 1527 where the river leaves the lake. From here expeditions set out to find the river's mouth, which was reached on the Caribbean in 1539 (Wikipedia, San Carlos, Nicaragua).

What's there

• The boat hub - departures for the river, the islands and the lake crossing.
• Painted waterfront - the brightly coloured regenerated centre.
• The old fort - the small fortification above the town.
• Lake meeting river - the point where the San Juan begins.

When to go

December to April for drier travel and more reliable boats. Departure schedules are limited and govern any visit, so checking them first is essential. The lake crossing to Granada runs on set days.

Practical notes

The town is small with limited accommodation and food. Boat schedules are sparse and change, and missing one costs a day. It is hot and humid. Most visits are dictated by transport rather than by choice.

Nearby

Los Guatuzos lies west; El Castillo is downstream.

Key facts