Epupa Falls

The Kunene river marks Namibia's northern border, and at Epupa it spreads out across a wide bed of rock and splits into dozens of channels that drop in a broad, chaotic scatter of falls rather than one clean curtain, fringed with makalani palms and enormous baobabs growing out of the rock. There is a viewpoint on the hill above where the sunsets are exceptional, and the pools upstream are safe enough to swim in while the ones below are emphatically not, because of crocodiles. This is deep Kunene, the homeland of the Himba, and villages near the falls receive visitors, which is worth doing thoughtfully and through a guide who has an established relationship rather than turning up with a camera. The journey there, hours of rough road through mopane and rock, is a large part of the experience.

What you actually see

• The falls - the river splitting into dozens of channels across a wide rock bed.
• The baobabs - huge trees growing straight out of the rock beside the water.
• The sunset viewpoint - the hill above the falls, the best light of the day.
• Himba villages - visits arranged respectfully through an established guide.

When to go

The falls are strongest from around April to June after the rains upstream, and reduce steadily through the dry season; May to October has the best road conditions. The wet season can make the approach impassable. Nights are cool even when days are hot.

Honest expectations

It is genuinely remote, hours of rough road beyond Opuwo, and a four-wheel-drive with proper preparation is the sensible choice. Crocodiles are in the river and people have been taken, so swim only where camps say it is safe. Himba village visits are easily done badly: go with a guide who has a real relationship with the community, pay the agreed fee, ask before photographing and accept refusals.

Nearby

Opuwo is the regional town; the Marienfluss and Van Zyl's Pass lie further into the Kaokoveld.