Rfissa

Rfissa is chicken cooked slowly with onions, lentils, saffron, ginger and above all ras el-hanout and fenugreek, the broth poured over a bed of torn msemen or trid - flaky griddle bread pulled into pieces - so that the bread absorbs it and softens without dissolving. The fenugreek is the point and the reason for its social role: it is traditionally made for a woman a few days after giving birth, on the belief that fenugreek helps recovery and milk supply, and the dish is brought by family and neighbours as part of that occasion. Whether the belief holds up is a question for a doctor rather than a cook, but the association is firm and rfissa is understood as a dish with a purpose rather than only a meal. It is also served at family gatherings generally. It is heavy, aromatic and quite unlike the tagines visitors usually meet.

What you actually see

• Fenugreek forward - the seed dominating the broth and giving the dish its character.
• Bread as the base - torn msemen or trid soaking up the broth without collapsing.
• A dish with an occasion - traditionally made for a woman after childbirth.
• Ras el-hanout - the spice blend carrying the rest of the seasoning.

When to go

All year. A long meal; some restaurants need notice.

Honest expectations

The traditional health belief around fenugreek is folk practice, not medical advice. It is heavy and strongly aromatic - fenugreek is divisive. Few tourist restaurants make it well. Portions are large.

Nearby

Homes across the country; Casablanca and the Chaouia region are its heartland.