The Middle Atlas Cedar Forest

The Middle Atlas around the towns of Azrou and Ifrane is a Morocco few visitors expect: a cool, green upland of dense cedar forest, alpine meadows and mountain lakes that feels closer to central Europe than to the deserts and palm oases most associate with the country. The great Atlas cedars grow tall and ancient here, and the forests are the stronghold of the wild Barbary macaque, the only monkey native to North Africa, which gathers in troops among the trees and is easily seen. The nearby town of Ifrane, built in an alpine style with steep roofs, is startlingly tidy and snowbound in winter, when Moroccans come to ski. Walking among the cedars, watching the macaques and breathing the pine-scented mountain air is a complete change of pace, and the region is an easy detour on the road south from Fès.

What you actually see

• The cedar forests - the tall ancient Atlas cedars, some centuries old.
• The Barbary macaques - wild troops of the only monkey native to North Africa.
• Ifrane - the tidy alpine-style mountain town, a ski resort in winter.
• The mountain lakes - the Dayet Aoua and other lakes in the wider highlands.

When to go

Late spring and autumn are green and mild; summer is a cool escape from the lowland heat; winter brings snow and skiing around Ifrane. The macaques are active year-round. Weekends see local visitors, especially in summer and in the snow season.

Honest expectations

The macaques are wild and should not be fed, though many visitors do, which harms them and makes them aggressive; keep your distance and do not offer food. It is a detour off the main tourist routes, so there is little dedicated infrastructure beyond the towns. The contrast with the rest of Morocco is the appeal, but those short on time often skip it for the medinas and desert.

Nearby

Fès is about an hour north; the road continues south through Midelt towards the Sahara and the Todra region.