Gheris Gorges

The Gheris runs south out of the High Atlas parallel to the Todra one valley east, and the road that follows it from Rich down to Goulmima passes through a series of gorges and oasis villages that see a small fraction of the traffic Todra gets. The rock is red and grey limestone, the canyon narrows several times, and at each widening there is a palm oasis with a ksar - fortified earth villages, several of them substantially intact, at Amellago, Aït Morhad and others down the valley. Goulmima at the southern end has a large restored ksar with covered streets. What makes this route worth taking is exactly what it lacks: no tour buses, no touts, no carpet stops, and villages that are going about their business. The road is surfaced but narrow and the river crossings can flood. Fuel is scarce along it.

What you actually see

• A parallel canyon to Todra - the same geology with almost none of the traffic.
• Oasis ksour - fortified earth villages at each widening of the valley.
• The Goulmima ksar - a large restored example with covered streets at the southern end.
• No tourist apparatus - no buses, touts or carpet stops on the route.

When to go

Spring and autumn. A day for the drive with stops.

Honest expectations

There is no tourist infrastructure - few cafes, scarce fuel and no guides on offer. River crossings flood after rain. Summer heat is severe. Villages are lived in; ask before photographing people or houses.

Nearby

Todra gorge is west; Errachidia and the Ziz valley are east.