The Safe North and Beaches

While the volcano devastated the south, the green and hilly north of Montserrat escaped, and it is here that life, and tourism, continue on the surviving Emerald Isle of the Caribbean. This lush, tranquil and unspoilt corner is a peaceful retreat of forested hills, part of the Centre Hills reserve alive with birdlife including the endemic Montserrat oriole, and quiet, mostly dark volcanic-sand beaches at Little Bay and Woodlands. The island's one golden-sand beach, the beautiful Rendezvous Bay, lies just to the north, reached by boat or a hike over the hills, offering a lovely swim in glorious isolation. Small, safe and welcoming, the north is Montserrat's living heart.

What you actually see

• Rendezvous Bay - the island's one golden-sand beach, reached by boat or hike.
• The Centre Hills - the forest reserve and birdwatching.
• The Montserrat oriole - the endemic national bird.
• The dark-sand beaches - the quiet volcanic beaches at Little Bay.

When to go

December to April, the dry season, for the best weather; the north is green and pleasant year-round, and Rendezvous Bay, reached by boat or a hike over the hills, is best on a calm, sunny day. Birdwatching in the Centre Hills is rewarding in the cool early mornings, and the island is quiet and uncrowded throughout.

Honest expectations

Montserrat is tiny, quiet and still recovering, with limited facilities, few visitors and most beaches of dark volcanic sand rather than golden, so its appeal is peace, nature, birdlife and the extraordinary volcanic story rather than resorts, nightlife or classic white beaches; reaching the island takes a ferry or small flight. For a genuinely tranquil, unspoilt and friendly green island escape, with rewarding birdwatching, quiet beaches and the lovely Rendezvous Bay, though, alongside its volcanic drama, the north of Montserrat is a rare and peaceful find.

Nearby

The volcano, the buried Plymouth and the neighbouring island of Antigua are within reach.