The Rhum Agricole Route

Martinique distils differently: rhum agricole ferments fresh-pressed cane juice rather than molasses, and the island's version is the only rum carrying a French AOC - a designation with rules on cane, yields and stills that a dozen working distilleries interpret in distinct house styles. Touring them is the island's connoisseur circuit: Clement's estate pairs cellars with gardens and art; Depaz distils under Pelee at Saint-Pierre; Neisson's zepol karé bottles command cult prices; La Favorite steams along on vintage machinery. Harvest season sets the presses rolling and the air sweet, and the ti-punch - rhum, cane syrup, lime, no ice by tradition - is the course of study.

What you actually see

• The working stills - column stills steaming in harvest season.
• Clement's estate - cellars, gardens and the plantation house.
• The cane harvest - cut fields and loaded lorries, February to June.
• The tasting rooms - blanc to hors d'age across the houses.

When to go

February to June catches distilleries in full steam - the sensory best; cellars and tastings run year round. Weekday visits dodge cruise-day crowds at the famous houses.

Honest expectations

Tastings are generous and the roads are winding - designate a driver or book a tour, without exception. The AOC story rewards a guided visit at least once; casual drop-ins get pours but less understanding. Prices at cult houses reflect the cult.

Nearby

Saint-Pierre under Pelee, Fort-de-France and the Trois-Ilets pottery village.