Old Kuching and the Waterfront

Kuching's old core runs along one bend of the Sarawak River: Main Bazaar, a continuous row of nineteenth-century Chinese shophouses now selling antiques, textiles and Borneo crafts, backed by Carpenter Street with its temples and clan associations in the lanes behind. In front of it a landscaped promenade replaced the working wharves in the 1990s, and a curved pedestrian bridge crosses to the north bank, where wooden Malay kampungs and Fort Margherita sit among trees. Small sampan ferries still shuttle across for a few coins, which is the better way over. The whole strip is walkable in a morning, and the cats after which the city may be named turn up as statues at several junctions.

What you actually see

• Main Bazaar - the row of old shophouses selling Borneo textiles, beadwork and antiques.
• The waterfront promenade - the riverside walk with the north bank kampungs opposite.
• The sampan crossing - wooden ferries carrying passengers over the river for a few coins.
• Carpenter Street - the lane of Chinese temples, five-foot ways and clan associations behind the bazaar.

When to go

Late afternoon into evening, when the heat drops, the promenade fills with local families and the north bank lights come on. Mornings suit the bazaar, before the tour groups. Kuching is wet from November to February, with heavy afternoon downpours that clear quickly. Weekend evenings bring food stalls out along the promenade.

Honest expectations

The shophouse strip is short and much of it sells the same souvenirs, so genuine antiques need a practised eye and hard bargaining. The promenade is entirely modern landscaping rather than a working waterfront. Afternoon heat and humidity are heavy and rain is frequent. Some of the older buildings behind the bazaar are in poor repair and closed up.

Nearby

Fort Margherita, the Borneo Cultures Museum and Bako National Park are all easy trips from here.