Brickfields Little India

Brickfields got its name from the brick kilns set up here after a fire and a flood destroyed much of early Kuala Lumpur, and it became a Tamil neighbourhood because the railway workshops were built alongside and the labour brought in for them was largely South Indian. The character survives: sari and textile shops, gold merchants, flower garland sellers stringing jasmine on the pavement, shops selling brass lamps and religious goods, and a concentration of restaurants serving banana leaf rice, dosai and South Indian vegetarian food that is the main reason many people come. There are Hindu temples, a Buddhist temple, churches and a mosque within a few streets. It was given a Little India makeover in 2010 with an arch, coloured paving and a fountain, which locals regard with mixed feelings.

What you actually see

• Banana leaf restaurants - South Indian food served on the leaf, the district's speciality.
• Sari and gold shops - textile and jewellery trade along the main streets.
• Garland sellers - jasmine and marigold strung on the pavement.
• Temples and churches together - several faiths within a few streets.

When to go

All year; Deepavali for the district at full strength. Half a day.

Honest expectations

It is a working neighbourhood, not a heritage zone - traffic, noise and uneven pavements. The 2010 beautification is superficial. Restaurants are busiest and best at lunchtime.

Nearby

KL Sentral is at the edge; the National Mosque and Lake Gardens are north.