Getsemani

Getsemani sits just outside the inner walled city and was historically where artisans, free Black residents and working people lived while the elite occupied the centre - it was also where the independence movement of 1811 had its base, and Pedro Romero, a free Black artisan, led the crowd that forced the declaration. For most of the twentieth century it was poor and largely avoided by visitors. That changed quickly: the streets are now covered in murals, the Plaza de la Trinidad fills every evening, and hostels, bars and restaurants have taken over - along with property prices, which have pushed out a substantial number of long-term residents, a process locals talk about openly and with some anger. The quarter is still lived in, but less by the people who made it.

What you actually see

• Murals through the streets - the quarter's current visual identity.
• Plaza de la Trinidad - filling every evening with people.
• The 1811 independence base - led from here by Pedro Romero.
• Visible displacement - long-term residents pushed out by prices.

When to go

December to April; evenings are when the plaza works. Half a day.

Honest expectations

Gentrification has changed the quarter substantially and residents have mixed views about visitors. It is loud at night. Prices are high for Cartagena. Photography of people and homes should be asked.

Nearby

The walled city is over the bridge; the Castillo San Felipe is east.