MV Ilala Ferry

The Ilala was built in Scotland in 1949, shipped out in pieces and assembled on the lake, and she has worked it since 1951, running a weekly circuit from Monkey Bay in the south to Chilumba in the north and back, calling at ports and islands, many of which have no jetty so passengers and cargo transfer to lifeboats offshore. First class is a small deck with cabins; economy is the hold. She is the lake's lifeline as much as a service for travellers.

What you actually see

• The 1949 ship - built in Scotland, shipped out in pieces and assembled on the lake.
• The lifeboat transfers - passengers and cargo moved ashore where there is no jetty.
• The full circuit - the weekly run from Monkey Bay to Chilumba and back.
• The island calls - Likoma and Chizumulu on the Mozambican side.

When to go

May to October is the dry season and the calmest. The schedule shifts constantly and delays of many hours are normal. Cabins must be booked ahead.

Honest expectations

Delays are routine and the timetable should be treated as an intention. Economy class is crowded and uncomfortable. The ship has been out of service for extended periods for repairs.

Nearby

Monkey Bay is the southern terminus, and Likoma is on the route.