Palmarium Reserve

Palmarium is a private reserve of some fifty hectares on a peninsula in the Pangalanes lagoons, planted with palms and endemic trees, where nine or so lemur species have been introduced and now move freely and completely without fear of people: indri, black-and-white ruffed lemurs, crowned sifakas and others come to within arm's length, which makes it the easiest lemur viewing in Madagascar and also the least wild. A separate night excursion crosses to a small island where aye-ayes are brought in by coconuts left out for them, giving a near-certain sighting of an animal that is very hard to see naturally. It is worth being clear about what this is: a managed collection in a natural setting rather than a wild population, and the feeding is what makes it work.

What you actually see

• Habituated lemurs - several species at arm's length in the palms.
• Aye-aye island - the night trip to see the animals at coconut feeders.
• Lagoon setting - the reserve on a peninsula between lakes.
• Planted endemic forest - palms and native trees across the grounds.

When to go

April to November for calmer boat crossings and less rain. Aye-aye trips run at night year round. The east coast is wet in any month and cyclones close access from January to March.

Honest expectations

The lemurs are introduced and fed, so this is not wild wildlife watching, and animals climbing on visitors is normalised here in a way that is not good practice. Access is by boat and by road from the capital, taking most of a day. Rates are high and usually bundled with the lodge.

Nearby

The Pangalanes canal runs both ways; Toamasina lies north.