Lake Itasy

Lake Itasy is the third-largest lake in Madagascar, a shallow sheet of water at around 1,200 metres in a volcanic district scattered with old craters, cinder cones and lava flows. The lake itself is used for fishing and its shores are farmed, and the appeal is less the water than the landscape around Ampefy: the Lily waterfall, the cold mineral geysers at Analavory, crater lakes, and a viewpoint at the Virgin's rock over the whole basin. It is close enough to the capital for a weekend, which is what it mostly serves as, and the highland scenery of terraced rice, red earth and volcanic hills is very different from the coasts. Accommodation is a small number of hotels in and around Ampefy.

What you actually see

• The shallow lake - fishing pirogues and farmed shores.
• Volcanic cones - old craters and lava country around the basin.
• The Virgin's rock viewpoint - the overview of the lake and hills.
• Rice terraces - highland farming on the surrounding slopes.

When to go

April to November for dry roads and clear air. The highlands are cool and evenings are cold, so warm clothes are needed year round. The wet season turns the tracks around the lake to mud.

Honest expectations

The lake is shallow and choked with weed in places, so it is scenery rather than a swimming or boating destination. Sites around it are spread out and need a vehicle. Guiding is informal and negotiated at each site. Accommodation is limited and basic.

Nearby

The Lily waterfall and Analavory geysers are close; Antananarivo lies east.