Ile Sainte-Marie

Sainte-Marie is a narrow island of coconut palms and quiet coves running along Madagascar's east coast, and it holds two things visitors travel for. The first is history: this was a pirate haven in the golden age, and a small cemetery holds graves marked with skull and crossbones, with wrecks in the bay below. The second is whales - humpbacks migrate here in their thousands between roughly July and September to breed and calve in the sheltered channel, close enough to shore that the spouts are visible from the beach and small boats bring you closer, with breaching and singing males a near-daily occurrence in season.

What you actually see

• Humpback whale season - breeding and calving whales in the channel from July.
• The pirate cemetery - skull-marked graves above the bay.
• Ile aux Nattes - the tiny islet off the southern tip, reached by pirogue.
• The island's coves - palm-backed beaches along the east and north coasts.

When to go

Whale season runs roughly July to September and is the island's peak. Beach weather is best from September to December. January to March is cyclone season with real disruption risk. Rain falls in most months on this coast.

Honest expectations

Flights are small, expensive and occasionally cancelled; the boat crossing from the mainland can be very rough. The island's road is potholed and travel is slow - many visitors get around by scooter or hired car with driver. Whale operators vary in how well they follow approach distances; choose ones with a stated code of conduct. Facilities are simple and power cuts are routine.

Nearby

Ile aux Nattes, the mainland east coast and the Pangalanes canal further south.