Antongil Bay

Antongil Bay is the largest bay in Madagascar, a deep sheltered arm of the Indian Ocean enclosed by the Masoala peninsula, and its warm shallow water makes it one of the main calving grounds in the southwest Indian Ocean for humpback whales, which arrive from Antarctic feeding waters around July and stay into September. Mothers and calves rest close to shore, and breaching and tail-slapping are common enough that boat trips from Maroantsetra and the Masoala lodges see whales most days in season. Outside the whale months the bay is a working seascape of fishing pirogues, vanilla and clove villages along the shore, and rainforest coming down to the water. Codes of conduct on approach distance exist and reputable operators follow them; the difference between operators is worth asking about.

What you actually see

• Humpback whales - mothers and calves in the calving season.
• Rainforest shoreline - Masoala's forest running to the water.
• Fishing pirogues - outrigger canoes working the bay.
• Village landings - vanilla and clove settlements along the coast.

When to go

July to September for whales, peaking in August. The rest of the year the bay is quiet and the point of a visit is transport to Masoala. January to March brings cyclones and boats do not run.

Honest expectations

Whale trips depend on weather and the sea gets rough; sailings cancel. Small boats are wet and uncomfortable in swell. Sightings are likely in season but never guaranteed. Operators vary in how closely they approach, and pressure to get nearer should be resisted.

Nearby

Masoala National Park and Nosy Mangabe are both in the bay.