Beirut

Beirut, the capital of Lebanon, is a storied, layered Mediterranean city, once famed as the Paris of the Middle East, built and rebuilt many times over, and it endures with an energy that surprises first-time visitors. A city of dramatic contrasts, it blends layers of history, Roman baths, Ottoman and French-mandate architecture, and a rebuilt downtown, with a seafront Corniche promenade beneath the landmark Pigeon Rocks, the excellent National Museum, and, above all, a legendary food, cafe, art and nightlife scene. Raw, sophisticated, battered and vibrant, Beirut is a fascinating and moving city.

What you actually see

• The Corniche - the seafront promenade and Pigeon Rocks.
• The National Museum - the superb collection of Lebanese antiquities.
• The layered history - the Roman baths and mandate-era architecture.
• The food and nightlife - the legendary dining, cafes and bars.

When to go

Spring, April to June, and autumn, September to November, for the mildest, most pleasant weather; the city's cafe, food and nightlife scene is lively year-round.

Honest expectations

For those able to visit safely, though, Beirut's resilience, its layers of history, its legendary food and nightlife and its complex, sophisticated soul make it a genuinely fascinating, moving and unforgettable city.

Nearby

Byblos, the Jeita Grotto and the mountains behind the city are within reach.