Diriyah

Diriyah, on the northwestern edge of the capital Riyadh, is the historic birthplace of the Saudi state and one of the kingdom's most important heritage sites. At its heart lies At-Turaif, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the original capital of the first Saudi dynasty in the eighteenth century, a striking complex of mud-brick palaces, mosques and defensive walls in the distinctive Najdi architectural style, set amid the palm groves of the Wadi Hanifah, now beautifully restored and opened to visitors.

History

The chroniclers of Nejd say Diriyah was founded in 1446-1447 by Mani' Al-Muraydi, an ancestor of the Saudi royal family, whose clan came from the Qatif area at the invitation of Ibn Dir', ruler of settlements that are now part of Riyadh, and the place was named after him; the Turaif district was settled later, and by the 18th century it was a well-known town in Nejd. Muhammad ibn Saud became its emir, in 1744 he took in the scholar Muhammad ibn Abd al-Wahhab, and Diriyah became the capital of the first Saudi state, which within decades ruled all of Nejd and much of Arabia, making it the largest town in Nejd. The Saudi conquest of Mecca and Medina brought the Ottoman-Saudi War of 1811-1818, and Diriyah capitulated in 1818 after a siege of nearly a year by Ottoman and Egyptian forces under Ibrahim Pasha; the At-Turaif district became a World Heritage Site in 2010 (Wikipedia, Diriyah).

What's there

• At-Turaif - the restored mud-brick palaces and walls of the old capital.
• The Najdi architecture - the distinctive local building style.
• The Wadi Hanifah - the green valley and palm groves.
• The museums - the exhibits on the birth of the Saudi state.

When to go

November to March, the cool season, for bearable temperatures, as Riyadh's summers are extremely hot; the restored district is especially atmospheric in the cooler evenings, when it is lit and its cafes and restaurants come alive.

Before you go

It is a major restoration and development project, so it blends genuine heritage with a polished, curated visitor experience and new dining and retail, which is either convenient or a touch sanitised depending on taste. It is on the edge of Riyadh, easily reached. As a conservative country, dress modestly. Its restored old capital and the greenery of the wadi are a highlight of Riyadh.

Nearby

Riyadh, the Edge of the World cliffs and the desert are within reach.

Key facts