Riga Central Market

Riga Central Market fills five enormous pavilions built from reused German zeppelin hangars, a cathedral-scale space for meat, fish, dairy and produce right beside the old town. It is one of the biggest markets in Europe and sits within the UNESCO-listed centre, still the everyday larder of the city.

Background

Traders have offered produce along the Daugava since 1571, and rows of trade stands went up there in 1863. Planning for an enclosed market began in 1922, and building ran from June 1924 to autumn 1930, halted in 1926-1928 when money ran short. Four pavilions stand side by side and the fifth, the largest, lies across them, its 5,000 sq m hall meant for wholesale and meat processing. Three tunnels lead from the basement to the river bank, and in 1938 its 27 freezers could hold up to 310,000 kg. Retail sales began on November 10, 1930, the day the old Daugavmala Market closed. Today the market covers 72,300 sq m with more than 3,000 stands.

Source: Wikipedia, "Riga Central Market"

The main sights

• The zeppelin hangars - five great arched halls, each dedicated to a kind of food.
• Smoked fish and meat - the Latvian specialities of smoked and cured produce.
• Dairy and rye bread - curd cheese, sour cream and dark rye by the loaf.
• The outdoor stalls - seasonal produce, berries and flowers around the halls.

When to go

Morning for the fullest stalls and freshest produce; it winds down in the afternoon. Weekdays are calmer than the busy Saturday.

Good to know

It is a real working market, so it can be crowded, chaotic and a little rough at the edges rather than a polished food hall. Watch your belongings in the crush as in any big market. The night-market and street-food side has grown, but the daytime produce halls are the classic experience.

Nearby

The old town is a two-minute walk north; the Academy of Sciences tower stands just behind the halls.

Key facts