Nam Ha and Luang Namtha

The Nam Ha protected area covers a large stretch of forested hills in Laos's far north, and what happened here in the early 2000s shaped ecotourism across the country: a project set up village-based trekking with strict rules on group sizes, rotation between villages so no single community was overwhelmed, and a share of income going directly to hosts. Trekking here means walking through forest between villages of Akha, Khmu and other groups, sleeping in village houses or simple camps, and eating what the household eats. Wildlife is present but rarely seen; the appeal is the forest and the villages. Kayaking on the Nam Tha river and cycling the valley are the alternatives.

What you actually see

• Community treks - one to three day walks between ethnic villages with licensed guides.
• Nam Ha protected area - dense hill forest with gibbons heard more often than seen.
• Nam Tha river kayaking - paddling between villages on the valley floor.
• Luang Namtha night market - northern food and produce in the small town.

When to go

November to March is the dry, cool season and by far the best for trekking. From March into April, agricultural burning fills the north with smoke that can be genuinely oppressive. The wet season makes trails difficult and leeches abundant.

Honest expectations

Trekking here is basic: village floors, shared meals, no plumbing to speak of, and long humid days. Choose an operator licensed by the provincial tourism office, since the rotation system exists to protect villages from being overrun and unlicensed trips undercut it. The burning season smoke in March and April is worth planning around. Unexploded ordnance is a hazard off marked paths.

Nearby

The Chinese border is close to the north; Nong Khiaw and the Nam Ou valley lie east.