Taita Hills

The Taita Hills rise abruptly to around 2,200 metres from the hot Tsavo plains, catching cloud and holding fragments of an ancient forest that has been isolated for millions of years, part of the Eastern Arc chain that runs down into Tanzania. That isolation produced endemics: the Taita thrush, Taita apalis and Taita white-eye are found only in these few remaining forest patches, along with endemic plants and a critically endangered reed frog, and the birds are among the most sought-after in Kenya by serious birdwatchers. The forest survives in scattered remnants at Ngangao, Chawia and Mbololo, each only a few dozen hectares, surrounded by intensively farmed slopes with terraced fields and villages. Wundanyi is the main town, cool and green, with paths between the forest patches and viewpoints over the plains.

What you actually see

• Endemic birds - Taita thrush, apalis and white-eye in the forest fragments.
• Ngangao and Chawia forests - the surviving patches of ancient woodland.
• Terraced farmland - intensively cultivated slopes between the fragments.
• Plains views - Tsavo stretching out far below.

When to go

Dry seasons for the roads, though the hills stay green and misty year-round. Early morning for birds. It is noticeably cooler than the plains, and rain is common.

Honest expectations

Forest fragments are small and reaching them means driving rough roads and walking; a local guide is close to essential for finding the endemics. There is very little tourism infrastructure, mostly small guesthouses in Wundanyi. The birds are genuinely hard to see and require patience.

Nearby

Tsavo East and Voi lie below; Lake Chala and Taveta are west.