Saiwa Swamp National Park

Saiwa Swamp covers only about three square kilometres and is the smallest national park in Kenya, created specifically to protect the sitatunga, a swamp antelope with splayed elongated hooves that let it walk on floating vegetation and a habit of submerging with only its nostrils showing when threatened. It is a park to walk rather than drive: boardwalks run through the papyrus and there are several tall observation towers built into trees, and the sitatunga are watched from these, usually early or late when they come out to feed. The riverine forest around the swamp holds De Brazza's monkey, another localised species with its distinctive white beard, along with black and white colobus, otters and a long bird list including the crowned crane. It is quiet, cheap and completely unlike a game drive.

What you actually see

• Sitatunga - the swamp antelope, watched from the tree towers.
• De Brazza's monkey - the white-bearded monkey of the riverine forest.
• The boardwalks - raised walkways through the papyrus.
• Observation towers - tree platforms overlooking the swamp.

When to go

Dry seasons for comfort, though the swamp is wet by definition. Early morning and late afternoon are when the sitatunga feed in the open. It takes a few hours to walk the whole park at a sensible pace.

Honest expectations

Sightings require patience and quiet: the sitatunga are shy and often just a shape in the reeds, and visitors expecting easy viewing are disappointed. Towers are wooden and some feel rickety. Facilities are basic with a campsite and simple bandas. Mosquitoes are abundant.

Nearby

Kitale is south; Mount Elgon National Park lies west.