Nzambani Rock

Nzambani is a granite monolith rising abruptly about forty metres from the surrounding bush, an inselberg left behind as softer rock eroded away around it. A steel staircase built up one side lets visitors climb to the flat top, where the view runs over Kitui county's thorn scrub and hills. The legend attached to it is the reason most Kenyans know the name: walking around the rock seven times is said to change your sex, a story every guide will tell and which schoolchildren repeat on visits. The site is managed by the county with a small entrance fee, and there are stalls and a picnic area at the base. Kitui itself is a dry region of baobabs and small farms, well off the main tourist routes, and the rock is its principal landmark.

The landscape

• The granite monolith - a forty-metre tower standing alone in the bush.
• The steel staircase - the built climb to the flat summit.
• Summit views - Kitui's thorn country and hills from the top.
• The seven-circuit legend - the story attached to the rock.

When to go

Dry seasons for the roads; Kitui is hot and the climb is exposed, so mornings are best. Weekends bring school groups and local families. Weekdays are usually empty.

What to expect

The staircase is functional but exposed and not for anyone uneasy with heights. There is no shade at the top. Facilities are basic stalls and toilets. The drive from Nairobi takes three to four hours, so it works best combined with other stops in the region rather than alone.

Nearby

Kitui town is west; Kora and the Tana country lie far north.