Mount Suswa

Suswa has an unusual double structure: an outer caldera and, inside it, a second inner crater separated by a ring-shaped moat of ground known as the island, which is grazed by Maasai livestock and roamed by wildlife. Beneath the volcano runs one of the longest lava tube cave systems in Africa, kilometres of tunnels formed when flowing lava drained from beneath a hardened crust, with collapsed skylights letting shafts of daylight into the dark. One chamber is famous locally as the baboon parliament, where troops roost at night on ledges; others hold large bat colonies. The caves need a guide, a headtorch and a willingness to scramble. On the surface, steam vents on the crater floor and the rim walk gives long views over the Rift towards Longonot and Naivasha.

What you actually see

• The double crater - outer caldera with an inner crater and the ring of the island.
• Lava tube caves - kilometres of tunnels with skylights and bat colonies.
• The baboon roost - the chamber where troops sleep on ledges.
• Rift views - long sightlines from the rim towards Longonot.

When to go

Dry seasons; tracks to the crater are difficult in the rains and the caves can flood in places. Bats and baboons are most active at dusk and dawn. Camping on the rim is the usual arrangement for a full visit.

Honest expectations

The approach needs 4x4 and a guide arranged through the community conservancy; there is no signage and getting lost is easy. Caves require a good torch, sturdy shoes and some scrambling, and bat guano makes parts unpleasant. There are no facilities, water or phone signal. Camping means carrying everything.

Nearby

Mount Longonot and Lake Naivasha lie north; the Maasai Mara road runs west.