Matthews Range

The Matthews Range, called Ol Doinyo Lenkiyio locally, runs for some hundred and fifty kilometres through Samburu country, its ridges carrying dense montane forest with ancient cycads, wild olive and podocarpus, while the country all around is dry acacia bush. The contrast makes it an island of forest with its own populations of elephant, buffalo, greater kudu, leopard and de Brazza's monkey, and the elephants move up into the ridges seasonally. It is walking country rather than driving country: the valleys have permanent streams with pools, and guided walks with Samburu guides through the forest and along the riverbeds are the way it is experienced. Kitich in the Ngeng valley is the traditional base. The range sits within a network of community conservancies, and access and income are organised through them.

What you actually see

• Montane forest - cycads, wild olive and podocarpus on the ridges.
• River valleys - permanent streams with pools in the forest.
• Guided walking - Samburu guides leading forest and riverbed walks.
• Forest elephants - the range's seasonal elephant population.

When to go

Dry seasons for access and walking; the tracks in are difficult in the rains. Walking is early morning and late afternoon. Nights are cool in the valleys compared with the lowlands.

Honest expectations

Access is through a small number of camps and conservancies rather than public roads, and costs are correspondingly high. Wildlife is present but the forest makes sightings scarce; this is a place for the experience of walking rather than a game-viewing tally. Getting there takes most of a day from Nairobi.

Nearby

Samburu and Buffalo Springs reserves lie south; Reteti elephant sanctuary is in the same conservancy network.