Kisumu

Kisumu sits on the Winam Gulf of Lake Victoria and grew as the terminus of the railway from Mombasa, which reached here in 1901 and made it a port. It is hot, low and humid compared with the highlands, and the pace is noticeably slower than Nairobi's. The lakefront is the centre of things: Dunga beach with its fishing boats and fish shacks serving tilapia fried whole, boat trips out to see hippos and the fish eagles, and sunsets over the water. The Kisumu Museum holds a good ethnographic collection with a reconstructed Luo homestead, snakes and aquarium tanks of lake fish. Impala Sanctuary on the lake shore is a small park with impala, zebra and rescued animals. The city's markets, particularly Kibuye on Sundays, are among the largest in the region.

What you actually see

• Dunga beach - fishing boats, fish shacks and lakefront sunsets.
• Hippo boat trips - short trips out into the gulf.
• Kisumu Museum - Luo homestead reconstruction and natural history.
• Kibuye market - a vast open-air market, biggest on Sundays.

When to go

Dry seasons for comfort; Kisumu is humid year-round and rain is heavy when it comes. Sunset is the lakefront's best hour. The Sunday market is worth timing for if markets interest you.

Honest expectations

Water hyacinth clogs the shoreline at times, affecting boats and the look of the lake. Bilharzia is present, so swimming is unwise. Boat operators vary and life jackets should be insisted on. The city has limited sights beyond the lake and markets, and heat slows everything.

Nearby

Kit Mikayi lies west; Ndere Island and the Homa Bay islands are out in the lake.