Almaty

Almaty was laid out as the Russian fort of Verny in 1854 on a slope below the Zailiysky Alatau, and the grid runs uphill, so the mountains close the view down most streets and the city has a clear sense of up and down that residents use instead of compass directions. It was the capital until 1997 and remains the larger and older city. The Ascension Cathedral in Panfilov Park is built entirely of timber and survived the 1911 earthquake that flattened much of the town. The Green Bazaar, the Central State Museum, the Arbat pedestrian street and the Soviet-era Hotel Kazakhstan are the fixed points, and the gorges above the city start where the streets end.

What you actually see

• The Ascension Cathedral - the all-timber church that survived 1911.
• The Green Bazaar - the central market with horsemeat and dairy rows.
• Kok-Tobe - the cable car up to the hill above the city.
• The mountain backdrop - the Alatau at the head of every uphill street.

When to go

April to October for the city and the mountains; December to March for skiing above it. Autumn is the clearest season. Winter smog settles in the bowl and air quality can be poor for weeks.

Honest expectations

Winter air pollution is a serious problem, with the city trapped under inversions. Traffic is heavy and the grid is slow to cross. Prices are the highest in the country. Sights are modest; the mountains and the food are the reason to stay.

Nearby

Medeu and Shymbulak lie up the gorge; Charyn canyon is east.