Amman

Amman, the capital of Jordan, is a welcoming, hilly city of pale limestone buildings spread across many hills, where the ancient and modern sit side by side. Its highlights include the hilltop Citadel, with Roman, Byzantine and Islamic ruins and sweeping city views, the well-preserved Roman Theatre below, and the lively downtown of markets, cafes and street food, making it a friendly base for exploring the whole country.

What you actually see

• The Citadel - the hilltop ruins of Roman, Byzantine and Islamic Amman.
• The Roman Theatre - the restored ancient theatre in the downtown.
• The downtown souks - the markets, cafes and street food.
• The city of hills - the pale stone city spread over its many hills.

When to go

Spring and autumn for the most pleasant weather; the city is a good base and gateway, with the Dead Sea, Jerash and, further south, Petra and Wadi Rum all reachable. Evenings in the downtown cafes are lively and pleasant.

Honest expectations

Amman is more a friendly, workaday base than a city of blockbuster sights, so its charm is in the atmosphere, food and hospitality rather than must-see monuments; a day covers the highlights. It is very hilly, so expect steep streets and steps. It is a comfortable, safe introduction to the region for many travellers.

Nearby

Jerash, the Dead Sea and the desert castles are within reach; Petra is a few hours south.