Nice and the French Riviera

Nice is the sun-drenched capital of the French Riviera, curving around the Baie des Anges on the blue Mediterranean, its seafront the famous Promenade des Anglais. Behind it, the old town of narrow lanes, ochre facades and a lively market spills toward Castle Hill and its view, while the glamorous coast of Cannes, Monaco and Antibes lies within easy reach.

History

The Terra Amata site within Nice shows some of the earliest known use of fire, and Greek colonists from Phocaea founded the city around 350 BC as Nikaia, after Nike, goddess of victory, over the neighbouring Ligurians; it became a busy port, with a Roman rival, Cemenelum, at what is now Cimiez. In the 7th century Nice joined the Genoese League, it drove off the Saracens in 729 but was sacked by them in 859 and 880, and in the Middle Ages, allied with Pisa against Genoa, it kept its municipal liberties despite periods under the Counts of Provence. In 1388 it placed itself under the protection of the Counts of Savoy, becoming the County of Nice, whose sea power grew enough to face the Barbary pirates; in 1538 Francis I and Charles V agreed a ten years' truce at nearby Villeneuve-Loubet, and in 1561 Duke Emmanuel Philibert made Italian the language of government in place of Latin (Wikipedia, Nice).

What you'll find

• The Promenade des Anglais - the famous seafront promenade along the bay.
• Vieux Nice - the old town of lanes, ochre facades and the Cours Saleya market.
• Castle Hill - the park with the sweeping view over the bay and old town.
• The Riviera coast - Monaco, Cannes, Antibes and the Corniche drives nearby.

When to go

Late spring to early autumn for the beach and warm sea; summer is hot and busy, the shoulder seasons calmer. The February carnival is a lively winter highlight.

Practical notes

The beach is pebble, not sand, which surprises many. It is a busy, built-up resort city rather than a quiet retreat. The old town and market are the charm; the coast around it, from Monaco to Antibes, holds much of the glamour.

Nearby

Monaco, Cannes, Antibes and the Corniche drives spread along the coast; the hilltop villages of the Riviera are inland.

Key facts