Ajloun Castle

Qal'at ar-Rabad was built in 1184 by a commander of Saladin's army, and unlike most castles in the region it is a Muslim fortress built to counter Crusader ones rather than the other way round. It sits on a hill at around 1,250 metres commanding the approaches from the Jordan valley, and it was part of a chain of signal stations that could pass a message by pigeon and beacon fire from the frontier to Damascus. The structure is compact and satisfying to explore: a dry moat, a drawbridge approach, vaulted galleries, arrow slits and stairs winding up to a roof with a view over hills that are, unusually for Jordan, forested with pine, oak and strawberry tree. Ajloun Forest Reserve nearby protects that woodland and runs cabins and walking trails.

What you actually see

• The vaulted galleries - dark stone halls and stairways through the keep.
• The rooftop view - across the Jordan valley and the forested Ajloun hills.
• The dry moat and drawbridge - the fortified approach on the north side.
• Ajloun Forest Reserve - oak and pine woodland with marked trails and a soap-making workshop.

When to go

Spring for green hills and wildflowers, autumn for clear air. Winter is cold and occasionally snowy at this altitude, which makes for striking photographs and difficult driving. Combine with Jerash for a full day from Amman.

Honest expectations

The castle is smaller than the drive suggests and two hours covers it comfortably. Interior lighting is dim and the stairways are uneven, which limits accessibility. Most visitors arrive as part of a Jerash day trip and see it briefly; the forest reserve nearby is the part that rewards staying longer.

Nearby

Jerash is half an hour away; Umm Qais is further north.