Toyosu Market

Toyosu opened in October 2018 after Tsukiji's inner market closed, on a much larger site with the whole operation under climate control and separated from public circulation - which is the main change. At Tsukiji visitors walked the floor among the trolleys; here they watch from elevated glass corridors above the halls, with the tuna auction from around 5.30 in the morning visible below. A limited number of places on a lower deck, closer and with the sound, are allocated by advance online lottery. The scale is the thing: hundreds of frozen tuna laid out in rows with their tails cut open so buyers can judge the flesh, inspected with torches and hooks, and sold in a few seconds each by a chanting auctioneer. Restaurants from Tsukiji moved with the market and open very early. The Tsukiji outer market still trades separately and is a different, more accessible experience.

What you actually see

• The tuna auction - hundreds of frozen fish sold in seconds each, from about 5.30.
• Glass galleries - visitors above the halls rather than on the floor as at Tsukiji.
• A lottery deck - a limited lower viewing area allocated online in advance.
• Early restaurants - Tsukiji's shops relocated and opening before dawn.

When to go

Early morning, before six. A morning. Closed Sundays and some Wednesdays.

Honest expectations

You cannot walk the floor - viewing is from behind glass, which many find flat compared with Tsukiji. The close deck is by lottery and hard to get. Getting there before dawn means a taxi or a very early first train. Check the market calendar for closed days.

Nearby

The Tsukiji outer market still trades; Odaiba is south.