Shimogamo Shrine

Shimogamo predates the founding of Kyoto in 794 - the site was in use before the capital was laid out here, and the shrine has been maintained by the Kamo clan since. It is part of the UNESCO inscription covering historic Kyoto. The approach is what distinguishes it: Tadasu no Mori, about twelve hectares of broadleaf forest at the confluence of the Kamo and Takano rivers, which has never been cleared or replanted and holds trees of several hundred years standing in a city that has burned repeatedly. Walking in from the south under that canopy is the experience. The shrine buildings are vermilion, rebuilt periodically to the same design under a system of ritual renewal. The Aoi Matsuri in May, one of Kyoto's three great festivals, processes from the imperial palace to here and on to Kamigamo in Heian-period costume.

History

Shimogamo is believed to be about a hundred years older than its partner, Kamigamo, and to date from the 6th century, centuries before Kyoto became the capital in 794; the two Kamo shrines were held to protect the city from malign influences. It won imperial patronage in the early Heian period and, with Kamigamo, became one of the two chief shrines of Yamashiro Province; Emperor Kanmu came in a grand progress in 794, Suzaku in 942 to give thanks for the return of peace, and later emperors followed. Kamo no Chōmei, author of the Hōjōki, was the second son of one of its head priests. From 1871 to 1946 it ranked among the Kanpei-taisha, the first rank of government-supported shrines, and it is one of the Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto on the World Heritage List (Wikipedia, Shimogamo Shrine).

What you'll find

• Tadasu no Mori - twelve hectares of never-cleared broadleaf forest as the approach.
• A pre-capital site - in use before Kyoto was founded in 794.
• Vermilion halls - rebuilt to the same design under a system of ritual renewal.
• Aoi Matsuri - a May procession in Heian costume from the palace to the shrine.

When to go

Mid-May for the Aoi Matsuri; all year for the forest. Two hours.

Things to know

The buildings are periodically renewed, so the timber is not ancient even though the site is. Festival days bring very large crowds along the route. Some inner areas require a fee or are closed. The forest paths are muddy after rain.

Nearby

Kamigamo Shrine is north; Demachiyanagi and the Kamo delta are south.

Key facts