Rishiri Island

Rishiri is essentially one mountain with a coastline. Mount Rishiri rises to 1,721 metres directly from the sea, which gives it the profile that earns it the name Rishiri Fuji, and the island is a near-circle about sixty kilometres around at the shore. The climb from Oshidomari is a serious day - around 1,500 metres of ascent on a loose volcanic path with no water above the third station, ten hours or more return - and the summit is often in cloud. Most visitors instead ring the island by road or bicycle, stopping at Himenuma pond for the reflection of the cone, at Otatomari pond, and at the two capes. The kelp harvested here is the high grade used for dashi in Kyoto kitchens, and the sea urchin that feeds on it is the island's other export. Alpine flowers grow on the upper slopes into summer.

History

The name comes from the Ainu for "high island", after the height of Mount Rishiri, and in 1848 Ranald MacDonald, later the first native English teacher in Japan, landed here (Wikipedia, Rishiri Island).

What you'll find

• A cone from the sea - 1,721 metres rising straight out of the water.
• The summit climb - about 1,500 metres of ascent and ten hours return.
• Reflection ponds - Himenuma and Otatomari mirroring the mountain.
• Kelp and uni - high-grade konbu shipped to Kyoto, and the urchin that eats it.

When to go

June to September; the climb needs settled weather. Two days.

Practical notes

The summit is frequently in cloud and the climb is harder than the modest altitude suggests - there is no water above the third station. Ferries cancel in swell. Accommodation is limited. The island is quiet to the point of empty outside the short season.

Nearby

Rebun Island is north across the strait; Wakkanai is east.

Key facts