Okinawa and Churaumi Aquarium

Okinawa is Japan in the subtropics: a chain of islands far south of the mainland, with turquoise coral seas, white-sand beaches and the distinct language, music and cuisine of the old Ryukyu kingdom. Its most famous single sight is Churaumi Aquarium on the main island's northern coast, built around one of the world's great aquarium windows - the Kuroshio tank, where whale sharks and manta rays cruise past a wall of acrylic with visitors silhouetted tiny against the blue. Beyond it stretch the real reefs: ferry-hop islands like the Keramas offer some of Japan's clearest water, sea turtles included, and the slow island rhythm the mainland fondly calls Okinawa time.

What you actually see

• The Kuroshio tank - whale sharks overhead in one of the world's largest aquarium windows.
• The Kerama Islands - blinding white sand and reef snorkelling a short ferry from Naha.
• Ryukyu heritage - Shuri Castle's rebuilt halls and the kingdom's distinct culture and food.
• The northern coast - Cape Manzamo's cliff, quiet beaches and jungle-clad Yanbaru.

When to go

Spring and late autumn hit the sweet spot of warm water without peak typhoon risk; swimming runs roughly April to October. Summer is glorious but watch typhoon forecasts, which can reshuffle ferries and flights for days. Winter stays mild and is whale-watching season for humpbacks off the Keramas.

Honest expectations

The main island is developed and traffic-clogged around its resorts - the postcard Okinawa mostly lives on the smaller islands, a ferry or short flight further. The aquarium is world-class and correspondingly busy; go at opening. Renting a car is near-essential on the main island. Okinawan food is its own proud tradition - try it properly rather than expecting mainland standards.

Nearby

The Kerama Islands, Cape Manzamo and, further out, Miyako and Ishigaki with Japan's finest beaches.